When the gasket is aligned, mark it in relation to the flange, as it may turn while you are centering the screw holes to match the tank holes. Be sure to slide a new gasket into place under the flange, then align the gasket with the holes in the sender and in the tank.
#1997 ford explorer fuel pump replacement steps install#
Install the new sender by lowering the float and float arm into the tank. One wire goes to the center pin on the tank sending unit, one goes to ground, and the third connects to a 12-volt source, normally the ignition switch. Next, remove the three wires on the back of the old gauge. Remove the screws that hold the sending unit to the tank and take it out. Note that if the gauge is grounded directly to a tab on the tank, there may be no ground wire. Then disconnect both the sending wire and ground wire on the old sending unit. Turn off the power running to the boat’s systems before you disconnect any wires. Both wires lead to the back of the fuel gauge. There may also be a ground wire coming off a second post at the edge of the flange. The sending wire will come off a post in the center of the flange. Once you have cut the float arm to the correct length, fasten it with setscrews to the flange of the new sending unit that will be screwed into the top of the tank. A strong pair of wire cutters will work with most units, but some require a hacksaw.
Next, trim the kit’s sending unit arm-they usually come in 24in lengths-and match it to the tank depth.
This measurement determines the length of the sending unit’s float arm. This also ensures that the gauge reads properly.įirst measure tank depth from the top of the tank, near the sending unit, to the bottom. The length of the sender arm may have to be modified to fit the dimensions of your fuel tank. Note that senders are not usually “plug and play” units. In general, installation will involve the following steps. Having obtained a new fuel sender kit, you should follow the directions specific to your new unit. The center wire is ground the one on the right is the sending wire. The wire marked “+” runs to the engine’s ignition switch. Note the marks I made to align screw holes (dark) and the float arm inside the tank (in pencil).Right: The new fuel gauge. The sending wire leads off the center post the other wire runs to ground. This resistance is what moves the needle on the gauge. As the arm rises, resistance in the circuit also rises to around 200 Ohms. When the arm is all the way down, in the “empty” position, the resistance in the circuit to the gauge is near zero.
Most sensors have a mechanical floating arm and a rheostat.
Several companies provide pre-packaged “ready-to-go” installation kits. In most cases, the sender and the fuel gauge need to be matched to the resistance in the sender’s rheostat, so to be completely sure you are getting accurate readings, replace both the sender and the gauge. If there is no resistance (as close to zero Ohms as possible), the circuit is good and the sender is faulty. Set your multimeter to the Ohms scale and check the resistance within the wire. To check the wire, disconnect it from both the sender and the “S” pin on back of the gauge. Ford e 350 suspension problems.If the gauge is good, the next step is to check the other system components, as either the wire running to the sender or the sender itself must be faulty.
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